In early 2025, the Surf Brigade Foundation led a life-changing surf retreat for eight U.S. military veterans to the wild and beautiful Matapalo, Costa Rica. Nestled at the southern tip of the Osa Peninsula, this remote paradise is not only one of the most bio-diverse places on Earth—it’s also home to some of the best waves in the world. Over the course of a week, we paddled out into the tropical waters to surf legendary point breaks like Pavones and Pan Dulce, as well as a few hidden gems that will remain forever classified.
The veterans on this trip ranged from their late 30s to mid-50s. They brought with them years of service, discipline, and sacrifice—along with the scars and physical wear that military service often leaves behind. Although each of their journeys was unique, their bodies told similar stories: of heavy loads, long missions, and the demanding physical conditions of military life. Surfing offered not only an incredible adventure, but also a lens into the connection between physical health, mobility, and long-term well-being.
The Osa Peninsula: Where Nature Heals
Before we dive into the physical aspect, let’s talk about the Osa Peninsula. Often referred to as the crown jewel of Costa Rica’s conservation efforts, the Osa contains 2.5% of the world's biodiversity in less than 0.001% of its surface area. That’s not just a statistic—it’s a sensory overload. Scarlet macaws screech overhead, howler monkeys echo through the trees, and vibrant green jungle stretches down to the black-sand beaches and perfect waves.
It’s the kind of place where healing can happen naturally. For our veterans, who often face both visible and invisible wounds, that mattered.
The Weight of Service on the Body
Service in the military often requires wearing gear that weighs 30 to 100 pounds or more for extended periods. This includes ballistic helmets equipped with night vision goggles (NVGs), pilot helmets with heads-up displays, body armor, and heavy rucks. Over time, these take a measurable toll on the spine, shoulders, and hips.
Neck and Upper Spine: Wearing helmets with NVGs for hundreds of missions—especially when flying or patrolling at night—puts continuous strain on the cervical spine. The additional front-loaded weight forces the neck into an unnatural forward-flexed position for long durations. This can result in chronic neck pain, disc degeneration, and nerve impingement that makes it painful or even impossible to hold your head up while in the prone position, like when lying on a surfboard.
Shoulders and Upper Back: Body armor, rucks, and other shoulder-borne loads create excessive wear and tear on the shoulder joints. Over years, this leads to premature arthritis, labral tears, and rotator cuff injuries. For a surfer, shoulder mobility is everything. Whether you're positioning for a wave or sprint-paddling to catch one, weak or injured shoulders can make even basic movement difficult.
Hips and Lower Back: Thousands of hours sitting in armored vehicles or cockpits with minimal movement—combined with heavy lifting—can deteriorate the hips and lumbar spine. The hips can develop arthritis, impingement, or lose range of motion altogether. This is a problem when you're required to explode from prone to standing in one fluid motion on a moving surfboard. Poor hip function means less stability, a slower pop-up, and an increased risk of injury.
Surfing Through the Pain
What many people don’t realize is that catching a wave is the result of many small physical demands all coming together: upper body stamina, neck and back strength, explosive power, balance, and flexibility. It’s not just the ride—it’s everything before the ride that counts. For our veterans, those initial movements—paddling, popping up, staying prone—often challenged their previous injuries and limitations.
But here's the incredible part: everyone found their own way to surf. Some adjusted their pop-up. Others paddled more slowly but more strategically. A few rode waves in prone or kneeling positions. And you know what? That’s all surfing. Surfing isn’t about perfection—it’s about participation. There’s no right way to ride a wave. There’s only your way.
Why Physical Conditioning Matters—For Life
Surfing has a way of exposing your weaknesses while also giving you a reason to strengthen them. Unlike some sports, it demands complete body integration. You can’t fake endurance. You can’t cheat stability. That’s why surfing can—and should—be at the center of a lifelong training plan, especially for veterans.
A well-rounded approach to physical health includes:
- Healthy Nutrition – Fueling your body for recovery and performance.
- Cardiovascular Training – For paddling stamina and ocean endurance.
- Strength Training – Especially focused on the posterior chain, shoulders, and core.
- Mobility and Flexibility Work – To maintain range of motion, prevent injury, and stay functional.
- Consistent Stretching – Especially important as you age to prevent stiffness and promote recovery.
The truth is, you may not move like you did at 25—but with intentional effort, you can continue moving well for decades to come.
Adapt and Overcome: A Veteran’s Approach to Surfing
For veterans, adapting is second nature. You’ve modified, overcome, and thrived in every imaginable condition. Surfing is no different. You don’t need to look like a pro to get out there. If your shoulders don’t let you paddle fast, adjust your board or your timing. If your hips don’t let you pop up quickly, change your transition. If you’re most comfortable staying prone or kneeling—do it.
The ocean doesn’t judge. The only thing it asks is that you respect it and yourself.
Final Thoughts: A Wave Worth Chasing
At the end of our week in Matapalo, each of the veterans walked away with more than salt in their hair and sore muscles. They found a renewed connection to their bodies, their strength, and the possibility of a life anchored by movement and joy. Surfing may look different for each of us, but the impact is the same: it motivates you to stay healthy, to keep improving, and to live fully.
So whether you’re a veteran, an athlete, or someone just looking for a reason to get moving—know this: the wave is worth it. And not just for the ride, but for everything it demands along the way.
Keep training. Keep paddling. And above all, keep surfing—your best life might just be one wave away.